Road quality: coast vs mountains
Highways and the main Tirana–Durrës corridor are generally good. The Riviera coastal route (SH8) has improved a lot and is enjoyable in daylight. Once you leave the main network — rural shortcuts, some inland stretches, Alpine approaches — expect narrower lanes, occasional potholes, limited lighting and slower progress. Do not drive unfamiliar mountain roads at night. In winter, check conditions before heading inland.
Manuals rule — book automatics early
Most of the fleet is manual. If you need an automatic, reserve weeks or months ahead for summer — they sell out and cost more. A small economy car is enough for couples on main routes; consider a higher clearance car only if you plan rough beach access tracks or serious mountain spurs.
Licence, IDP and insurance
Bring your national licence. An International Driving Permit is not always checked at the desk, but UK and other guidance often recommends carrying one — cheap peace of mind if police ask. Basic CDW is usually included with a high excess (often hundreds of euros). Full or Super CDW that lowers the excess is worth considering: narrow roads and tight village streets mean scrapes happen. Read exclusions (tyres, glass, undercarriage, off-road).
Fuel, tolls, parking and borders
Petrol stations are common on main routes; fill up before remote valleys. Tolls are rare compared with much of Europe — you will meet few of them on a typical tourist loop. Parking in Tirana can be tight and paid in busy zones; Saranda and Riviera towns fill up in July–August, so hotel parking helps. Cross-border or ferry plans (e.g. Corfu) need written permission from the rental company — never assume it is included. Confirm drop-off rules and any one-way fees in writing.
Driving style
Expect assertive overtaking, uneven use of indicators and the occasional livestock or scooter surprise. Stay defensive, keep speed modest on blind bends, and avoid arguments. It feels lively at first and becomes normal after a day. If that does not sound like a holiday, skip the hire car.
Prefer doors opened for you instead of self-drive stress? Our private Grand Mosaic covers Alps, heritage and Riviera with a driver-guide — or browse all tours and we will match the pace.
